The Rebels who Interrupted Milan Fashion Week

Coming to a close this week, Milan’s AW24 womenswear showcase was sharp and minimalist. Where there was glamour, it was mostly sophisticated, injected through shiny leather and sparkly tassles. The sleek aesthetic has come to be expected of the city’s Fashion Weeks; major houses such as Prada, Emporio Armani, Valentino and Gucci – which has returned to subtly since Sabato de Sarno replaced the flamboyant Alessandro Michele at the helm last year – dominate the space. 

Thanks to a growth of support from Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana and foundations such as Fondazione Sozzani, greater opportunities are however opening up for emerging talent to be seen. With these fresh perspectives on the schedule and maverick designers returning to break rules and dress-codes, a spirit of rebellion could be felt in Milan this season. As well as Versace’s punk-inspired collection, there were runways sparking debates for their unconventional formats and collections designed to defy convention. Here are three of Milan’s most riotous shows…

Diesel might be well-established but creative director Glenn Martens never fails to surprise us. The subversive designer can be credited for Diesel’s recent major revival – the extent of which was proved in the runup and day of its latest show. Honouring the collection’s concept ‘turning the inside out’, Martens invited hundreds of members of the public to tune in, on camera in real-time, to the show online. These guest’s remote presence was felt viscerally thanks to the towering screens which projected them (or their pets) along the runway. The making of the collection meanwhile had been captured on CCTV and streamed on the brand’s website non-stop for three days. Spilling into the collection, clothes were shredded, scorched and torn to reveal the linings beneath. Garments made using blow torches and a catwalk turned into mega zoom-call – sounds like a riot. 

The Stockholm-based label is known for its sustainable ethos. Far from dull (it’s in the name), Rave Review’s approach uses deadstock materials and reimagines them into garments that are cool, a bit punk and certainly suited to a rave. For AW24, designers Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schük were inspired by an intellectual concept – Mark Fisher’s writing on Hauntology. Argyle was spliced with animal prints, satin and lace harshened by checks and faux far was crafted into a hoodie. Going against the grain is inherent to the brand and their stunning Milan show was certainly a challenge to the fashion industry.

Founder of AVAVAV Beate Karlsson is by now known for the shock factor of her shows – remember last year’s viral video of models tripping dramatically on the catwalk that was Beate. For AW24, the label went a step further and things turned utterly filthy. Willing models were subject to rubbish being launched at them from planted members in the audience. Everything from mustard, tinned tomatoes and raw eggs splattered onto the clothes and runway. Unplanned, ordinary front-row sitters also got involved in the fly tipping and by the end the space looked like the aftermath of Reading festival, only with better-dressed attendees left at the end. Rather than groundbreaking or beautiful, the clothes were simple featuring teenage-beloved staples – hoodies, baby tees and distressed jeans – and baring satirical slogans like “filthy rich”. Whether you’re a fan of theatrics or not, there’s no denying that AVAVAV’s catwalks are provocative… and besides Rick Owens is a fan, no more endorsement necessary.