Ones To Watch From London Fashion Week

Over the past week London Fashion Week (LFW) celebrated its 40^th anniversary with an action-packed schedule of 43 live shows, igniting the city with a fervour for fashion like never before. Whilst a tea party was held at Downing street to celebrate such momentous occasion, British design talent were running riot over some of the city’s famed locations.

Burberry took us to the great outdoors, doubling down on their synonymy in outwear with textural richness crafted from British and Irish wool, and surprised us with an appearance from Naomi Campbell on the catwalk. Meanwhile Erdem and Simone Rocha channelled outfits that could have come from Saltburn’s Elspeth Catton’s wardrobe with flocks of tulle dresses, elongated leather gloves and overhauls of faux fur.

Maturity was the driving force behind many British fashion powerhouses, with JW Anderson opulence of wool, cosy knitted overthrows, and his chic grey bobs, while Richard Quinn paid homage to regal aesthetics, drawing inspiration from the late Queen Elizabeth II to craft a collection fit perfect for a Queen.

Yet, amidst the smorgasbord of established names commanding attention, a cohort of emerging designers—fostered by London’s nurturing fashion ecosystem—emerged as the talk of the town. Injecting fresh perspective into the industry, we’ve rounded up some of the brightest rising stars who left an indelible mark on LFW. From the likes of Olly Shinder to Aaron Esh, here’s 4 next generation designers who are reshaping the fashion landscape as we speak.

Aaron Esh

When showgoers arrived at Aaron Esh’s AW24 show they were greeted with coupes of Moët and bowls of cigarettes—an enticing yet adept prelude to a collection that solely channelled dishevelled sensuality. While paying homage to his East London roots inspired by its nightlife and irreverent attitude, Esh turned his sights to questioning modern-day consumption for his LFW sophomore show. Transforming the runway into an enclave of indie sleaze, his collection embraced ensembles you would throw together whilst nipping to the corner shop. Models adorned slinky bias-cut dresses whilst eyeliner was smeared, retro sunglasses were worn and nods to noughties fashion with baseball caps. Hoodies underwent intricate tailoring, while long-haired coats and shimmering trousers added layers of texture and decadence.

Olly Shinder

Adding his name to Fashion East’s impressive roaster of hosting Kim Jones, Wales Bonner and Simone Rocha, Olly Shinder took his “collection to the lab” for his AW24 show. Epitomising his penchant for fetishistic subversion of uniform tropes, Shinder married the juxtaposing world of corporate with kink. Sculptural shirts were worn with thigh-high leather boots that grazed at the hip, whilst thin overtly transparent hazmat suits clinched to the skin of each model. Tightly fitted ‘lab’ aprons and PU-coated cotton raincoats were the stars of the show, not forgetting the overhaul of rubber that lies at the perfect intersection of kinky and luxury.

Chet Lo

If you didn’t know, Chet Lo has a thing for spikes, and they’re all on display during his AW24 collection. Inspired by the Terracotta Army—a collection of sculptures depicting the legions of Emperor Qin Shi Huang—Lo masterfully resurrects these iconic figures in his adeptly titled ‘Terracotta’ collection. Playing with balance and scale, the former Central Saint Martins student places his hallmark spikes along sleeves, the upper back and even on belts that cinch felted wool sarong trousers. Handknit pailette headdresses echo the stone helmets of the Qin dynasty, while slightly cropped turtlenecks are worn with wool trousers featuring twisted detailing at the knee.

Connor Ives

Putting aside his fantastical manifestations of women, it’s the real women within Conor Ives’ life that are the main driving force of his recent collection. Dubbed his ‘swans’ in the show notes, these muses breathe life into his creations as he transforms the ballroom of the Savoy into a spectacle of lavish opulence. If turning one mash’s trash into treasure was always Ives’ trademark, he only takes it to greater heights in his AW24 offering. Opting for using rogue safety pins—sourced from eBay—for his embroidery, as well as gathering bits and pieces from his studio floor, Ives even ventured into upcycling, using surplus military stock for his jersey pieces. Such shirts find new life paired with grandeur lace skirts, while the pièce de resistance—a stunning silk bubble dress—emerges from a repurposed wall tapestry.