- Words Solly Warner
For AW21, Emporio Armani offers up a collection of “snappy, eclectic and metropolitan” looks with updated references to the 80s.
With the pandemic prompting many to predict a potential repeat of the events of the roaring 20s, Emporio Armani has taken inspiration from another example of hopeful change. Following a decade of economic struggle in the 1970s, came an outburst of creativity.
Dashes of bright colour, graphic motifs and unexpected accessories continued the dialogue of mirroring between men and women. From sparkling details on velvet dresses to soft-shouldered tailoring in disco hues, Armani is definitely looking to a brighter future.
In an interplay of counterpoints, the opacity of knitwear alternates with the silky sheen of velvet for the feminine silhouette. Blazers are illuminated by boule buttons; cropped jackets with drawstrings are reminiscent of the attitude of athletic wear. Unexpected patchwork prints on velvet dresses provide movement to a colour palette in which bright notes of purple and pink stand out against a black base that shimmers in the evening.
For men, the silhouette is flowing and deconstructed. Jackets are wide with drop shoulders; lined with their hairy linings, they replace coats, while the coats themselves are crafted from knitted or woven knit fabrics. Nods to sophisticated sleepwear, suggested by collarless blazers resembling dinner jackets, coexist with the reinterpretation of athletic styles. Worn with a tie, the tailored suit is crafted from denim-effect fabric. Set against a backdrop of neon lights, the bold colours are replaced by dominating black; discreet yet luminous and velvety.